CAL doll Greta - free crochet pattern, PART 5 - DRESS AND SHOES

Here we've come, my friends, to the final part of Greta doll, an original design of Petus Ochoa, who gave me her approval to translate her video tutorials. This is why I recommend, once again, to watch the original videos, for the dress and for the shoes, in order to see how special stitches are done and how, normally, everything should look like. You'd notice I worked just a bit differently from the videos, but the modifications I made should not change very much the outcome.

DRESS

Cluster1: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc into the same stitch
Cluster2: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc into the same stitch/cluster

R1: 34ch, turn
R2: starting in 7th ch from hook, 3dc, [cluster1, 6dc]x3, cluster1, 3dc, turn
R3: 2ch (counts as first dc), 3dc, [cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster1, 8dc]x3, cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster 1, 4dc, turn
R4: 6ch, 5dc, 2dc in last dc before the 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 10dc, 2dc in same dc before the next 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 5dc, turn
R5: (work only sc on this row) 1ch, [2sc, 1V] all along, turn
R6: 6ch, 1dc, [skip one stitch, cluster2, skip one stitch, dc] all along, 1dc final, turn
R7: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 2dc in the dc] all along, turn
R8: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 1dc, 1dc increase (3dc in total)] all along, join to the other end of the row and then continue working without turning anymore for the following rounds
R9-R16 (8 rounds): the 2ch you make at the beginning of each round should be in the middle of the bottom edge of the triangle between each column of clusters. The triangle shape is formed by adding a dc between each cluster2 on each round, for example, if you have 3dc between each cluster2 on row 8, you will have 4dc between each cluster2 on row 9, 5dc between each cluster2 on row 10 etc ending with 11dc between each cluster2 on row 16. Make a slip stitch at the end of each row. You can work more than just 16 rows if you want.

The final row, R17, is a decorative edge and consists of sc worked from left to right (for the right-handed): please check Petus video for the dress in order to see how it’s done. After you finish the bottom edge, go back to the arm holes and work around them one row of clusters2 separated by 1dc, then add an edge in the same manner as for the skirt. You should obtain 7 cluster2 on each armhole, but it’s no problem if you obtain one more or one less. Add 3 buttons to the back, a button or other decoration on the chest, and then the dress is ready to go on your doll.

SHOES

SOLES – make two of them, in the same color, and don’t fasten off for the second one, if you’re using the same color for the border, like me.

R1: 9ch, 3sc in second ch from hook, 6sc, 3sc in next ch, 6sc, slst into first sc (12)
R2: 1ch, 3V, 6sc, 3V, 6sc (24)
R3: 1ch, [1sc, 1V]x3, 7sc, 1V, [1sc, 1V]x2, 6sc, slst (30)
R4: 1ch, [2sc, 1V]x3, 8sc, 1V, [2sc, 1V]x2, 6sc , slst (36) Prepare a plastic sole that would fit between the two crochet soles, then align them one over the other, making sure the wrong sides of the crochet soles are inside.
Start closing the three-layer sole with a sc row (R5), passing through both loops, for the upper crochet sole, and through one loop, for the bottom sole. Hide the yarn end when you’ve finished and continue with another color.

R6: On the unworked loops of the bottom sole, cast 36sc starting from the same place where you fastened off on R5, for the left shoe, and 18sc further for the right shoe, slst into the first sc (36)
R7-R9: 36sc, slst (36)
R10: left shoe: 6sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together (see Petus video to understand how it’s done), 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 16sc, slst
right shoe: 18sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together, 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 4sc, slst
both shoes: in order to make the strap, 17ch, then starting from the second ch from the hook, work 1sc in the 3rd loop of each chain (the one in the back) up to the beginning (16sc), then slst into the next stitch. Fasten off.

BOW: in magic ring, 3ch, 4dc, 3c, slst, 3ch, 4dc, 3ch, slst, secure the magic ring and with the free yarn end, cover the middle of the bow a few times. Attach to the strap with glue or using the yarn ends. I added some clips on the shoes and on the straps, in order to make them removable.

My strawberry doll adores them! Thank you all for joining this CAL, and hope to see you again on the next one! :)

This article is printer friendly. Search for the print button at the end of the article.

Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this CAL, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work and CALs.

Find the first part of the CAL - the hands, here.

Find the second part of the CAL - the legs, here.

Find the third part of the CAL - the body and head, here.

Find the fourth part of the CAL - the assembly, here.

CAL doll Greta - free crochet pattern, PART 4 - ASSEMBLY

My life is so busy lately, that I must confess - I cheated other priorities in order to help you finalize your Gretas before Christmas. So, here is my method for joining the parts together.

First step, you need to gather all the parts and tools together, as shown in figure 1. You will need a long needle, some buttons, strands of yarn - body and underwear colors, and pins. In figure 1, left, I highlighted the shape of the doll seen from the side - it has a curve at the back, given by the decreases on rows 19 and 20, and a curve on the face, given by decreases on rows 55 and 56 - those curves represent the bottom and the face.

Second step, you will pin-mark the first and last decrease on row 19, to help you decide next where the joining points will be, as illustrated in figure 2:

- in order to attach the legs, mark 7th and 9th rows on the underwear and 7th row from above on the legs;

- in order to attach the hands, mark 6th row from the neck, on the body, and 5th row from above on the hands.

To realise the joinings, I will explain how I did it for the legs. I passed the yarn through the needle, then I passed the needle through both holes of one button. Then, I inserted the needle into the left leg of the doll, as close as I could to the pin. I removed the pin while I was passing the needle to the other side. Then, I inserted the needle through the marks on the 9th row of the body, from my right to my left. Then, I took the right leg of the doll and passed from right to left, according to the mark. Next, I passed my needle through both holes of the second button, and executed a return to the first button on the opposite side of the doll. On the legs, I had to punch in the same place, but making sure I didn't meet the coming strand of yarn (in order to avoid tangles and allow pulling). On the body, I punched through marks on row 7. At the end of this operation, your legs should look like in figure 3. Then, you will take both yarn ends and pull as tight as you can (you may want to press from the side of the doll) until you obtain some kind of "V shape" for the underwear. In fact, it should look similar to plastic doll joints. Then, fasten off and hide the ends into the left leg.

Do similar for the hands. Then mark the belly and the bottom as pictured in figure 4, on row 15. Take the needle with white yarn , insert it from the bottom to the belly. Come back to the bottom from row 14 near the belly. Then, insert the needle into the magic ring between the legs, and come back once again to the bottom mark. Fasten off and hide the ends.

You may shape further the face as I did in figure 5 - I marked the places where I wanted the eyes and corners of the mouth, and, inserting the needle from the back of the head, I went from the left eye to the left mouth corner, then to the right mouth corner and right eye, going out through the back of the head, the same place where I entered. Pulled, fastened off and hid the ends.

For the small doll, I chose painted eyes on fabric. For the bigger doll, I used safety eyes from Aliexpress.

As I finished to decorate her head, I also present you the half-naked Lumi doll. She is some kind of self-portrait, although she looks more like me without the braids. One of the next days I will post the dress and shoes pattern, as soon as I will make them for my Lumi.

Have fun!

This article is printer friendly. Search for the print button at the end of the article.

Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this CAL, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work and CALs.

Find the first part of the CAL - the hands, here.

Find the second part of the CAL - the legs, here.

Find the third part of the CAL - the body and head, here.

Find the fifth part of the CAL - the dress and shoes, here.