Miss Piggy - Free amigurumi pattern

Oh, I've never been more excited about something as I am about Miss Piggy right now! As a matter of fact, I'm writing this post in a very much hurry, just to be able to show you Miss Piggy wearing her sweeeet ruffled dress (which, by the way, was recycled from an old shirt). In the same time, I'm giving you the opportunity to make a Miss Piggy of your own, courtesy of Yana Dym Sky, her designer, which allowed me to publish my english notes describing her pattern.

As I said before, my notes are not as detailed as the original tutorial, so if you want further guidance, please watch Yana in action on her youtube channel - you can find the first part of Miss Piggy video tutorial here.

By clicking right here, you will find a short guidance for the abbreviations I'm using. For this doll, I used Clover Amour hook size 2.25 mm, with Catania/Alize Bahar cotton yarn - tight crochet for the body and loose crochet for the dress. I'm not sure about the size of the eyes, maybe 10 mm, but you can experiment with several sizes and decide what's good for you, depending on the size of your finished toy :)

1. HEAD

R1: magic ring, 6sc
R2: 6inc (12)
R3: 1sc, 1inc (18)
R4: 2sc, 1inc (24)
R5: 3sc, 1inc (30)
R6: 4sc, 1inc (36)
R7: 5sc, 1inc (42)
R8: 6sc, 1inc (48)
R9: 7sc, 1inc (54)
R10-R16 (7rows): 54sc (54)
R17: 9sc, (1sc, 1inc)x6, 1ch, skip 1sc, 10sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, (1inc, 1sc)x6, 9sc (66) (insert later the safety eyes in the holes created by skipping 1sc)
R18-R20 (3 rows): 66sc (66)
R21: (9sc, 1dec)x6 (60)
R22: (8sc, 1dec)x6 (54)
R23: (7sc, 1dec)x6 (48)
R24: (6sc, 1dec)x6 (42)
R25: (5sc, 1dec)x6 (36)
R26: (4sc, 1dec)x6 (30)
R27: (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
R28: (2sc, 1dec)x6 (18)
R29: (1sc, 1dec)x6 (12)
R30: 6dec (6)
Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing to the body.

2. EARS (make two)

R1: magic ring, 6sc (6)
R2: 6sc (6)
R3: 6inc (12)
R4: 12sc (12)
R5: (1sc, 1inc)x6 (18)
R6: 18sc (18)
R7: (2sc, 1inc)x6 (24)
R8: 24sc (24)
R9: (3sc, 1inc)x6 (30) R10: 30sc (30)
R11: superpose the final row, crochet together 14sc, leave long end for attaching to head.

3. MUZZLE

R1: magic ring, 6sc (6)
R2: (1sc, 1inc)x6 (12)
R3: 1sc, 3inc, 4sc, 3inc, 1sc (18)
R4: 1sc, (1sc, 1inc)x3, 4sc, (1sc, 1inc)x3, 1sc (24)
R5: 1sc, (2sc, 1inc)x3, 4sc, (2sc, 1inc)x3, 1sc (30)
R6: BLO, 30sc
R7: 30sc
Fasten off, leaving long end for sewing to head.

4. BODY

R1: magic ring, 6sc
R2: 6inc (12)
R3: (1sc, 1inc)x6 (18)
R4: (2sc, 1inc)x6 (24)
R5: (3sc, 1inc)x6 (30)
R6: (4sc, 1inc)x6 (36)
R7: (5sc, 1inc)x6 (42)
R8: (6sc, 1inc)x6 (48)
R9: (7sc, 1inc)x6 (54)
R10-R19 (10 rows): 54 sc
R20: (7sc, 1dec)x6 (48)
R21-R22: 48sc
R23: (6sc, 1dec)x6 (42)
R24-R25: 42sc
R26: (5sc, 1dec)x6 (36)
R27-R28: 36sc
R29: (4sc, 1dec)x6 (30)
R30-R31: 30sc
R32: (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
R33-R34: 24sc
R35: (1sc, 1dec)x6 (18)

5. HANDS

R1: magic ring, 6sc
R2: (1sc, 1inc)x3 (9)
R3: 9sc
R4-R5: (join the two parts): 18sc
R6-R10: 18sc
R11: 8sc, 1dec, 8sc (17)
R12: 17sc
R13: 8sc, 1dec, 7sc (16)
R14: 16sc
R15: 8sc, 1dec, 6sc (15)
R16: 15sc
R17: 8sc, 1dec, 5sc (14)
R18: 14sc
R19: 7sc, 1dec, 5sc (13)
R20: 13sc
R21: 7sc, 1dec, 4sc (12)
R22: 7sc, 1dec, 3sc (11)
R23: 6sc, 1dec, 3sc (10)
R24: 6sc, 1dec, 2sc (9)
R25: sc a few stitches to be able to fold it the right way, then stitch together to end, leave long ends for attaching to body.

6. FEET

R1: 7ch
R2: from 2nd ch from hook, 5sc, 6sc in last ch, 5sc (16)
R3: 5sc, 6inc, 5sc (22)
R4: 3sc in first sc, 4sc, (1sc, 1inc)x6, 5sc (30)
R5: 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 4sc, (2sc, 1inc)x6, 5sc (38)
R6: 1sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 33sc (40)
R7: 40sc, crocheted from the back
R8: 40sc in top 2 loops
R9-R10: 40sc
R11: 4sc, 1dec, 13sc, 1dec, (1sc, 1dec)x4, 7sc, change color
R12: attach middle back, 13sc, 5dec, 11sc (29)
R13: 11sc, 4dec, 10sc (25)
R14: 1dec, 10sc, 1dec, 11sc (23)
R15: 9sc, 3dec, 8sc (20)
R16-R18: 20sc
R19: 1dec, 18 sc (19)
R20: 19sc
R21: 1dec, 17sc (18)
R22: 18sc
R23: 1dec, 16sc (17)
R24: 17sc
R25: 1dec, 15sc (16)
R26: 16sc
R27: 1dec, 14sc (15)
[left leg]
R28: 11sc, 1dec, 2sc
R29: 10sc, 1dec, 2sc
R30: 9sc, 1dec, 2sc
R31: 6dec, fasten off
[right leg]
R28: 3sc, 1dec, 10sc
R29: 3sc, 1dec, 9 sc
R30: 3sc, 1dec, 8sc
R31: 6dec, fasten off

7. DRESS

The dress I used for my Miss Piggy was just designed by me, so I'm presenting you this version. For the original version, please check Yana's tutorial here.

R1: 32ch, turn, slst into the 6th ch
R2: 2ch (counts as dc), 3dc, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] into next ch, 2dc, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] into next ch, 8dc, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] into next ch, 2dc, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] into next ch, 6dc, turn
R3: 2ch (counts as dc), 1dc, (2dc in next dc)x2, 2dc, 5ch, skip 8 stitches, 1dc, 2dc in next dc, (2sc, 2dc in next dc)x3, 1dc, 5ch, skip 8 stitches, 2dc, (2dc in next dc)x2, 4dc, turn
R4: 2ch (counts as dc), 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 3dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc, (1dc in next ch)x2, 2dc in next ch, (1dc in next ch)x2, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 3dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 3dc, 2dc in next dc, 2 dc, (1dc in next ch)x2, 2dc in next ch, (1dc in next ch)x2, 1dc, 2dc in next dc, 3dc, 2 dc in next dc, 2dc, 6ch, turn,
 R5: sc around

Dress shoulders: working on R3, 4dc in first 1ch space, 2dc, (2dc in next dc)x2, 2 dc, 4dc in 1ch space.

Hope you Miss Piggies will turn out just as cute as mine. Thank you, Yana Dym Sky, for the hard work invested in creating this beautiful pattern!

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Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this toy.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this pattern, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work.

CAL doll Greta - free crochet pattern, PART 5 - DRESS AND SHOES

Here we've come, my friends, to the final part of Greta doll, an original design of Petus Ochoa, who gave me her approval to translate her video tutorials. This is why I recommend, once again, to watch the original videos, for the dress and for the shoes, in order to see how special stitches are done and how, normally, everything should look like. You'd notice I worked just a bit differently from the videos, but the modifications I made should not change very much the outcome.

DRESS

Cluster1: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc into the same stitch
Cluster2: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc into the same stitch/cluster

R1: 34ch, turn
R2: starting in 7th ch from hook, 3dc, [cluster1, 6dc]x3, cluster1, 3dc, turn
R3: 2ch (counts as first dc), 3dc, [cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster1, 8dc]x3, cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster 1, 4dc, turn
R4: 6ch, 5dc, 2dc in last dc before the 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 10dc, 2dc in same dc before the next 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 5dc, turn
R5: (work only sc on this row) 1ch, [2sc, 1V] all along, turn
R6: 6ch, 1dc, [skip one stitch, cluster2, skip one stitch, dc] all along, 1dc final, turn
R7: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 2dc in the dc] all along, turn
R8: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 1dc, 1dc increase (3dc in total)] all along, join to the other end of the row and then continue working without turning anymore for the following rounds
R9-R16 (8 rounds): the 2ch you make at the beginning of each round should be in the middle of the bottom edge of the triangle between each column of clusters. The triangle shape is formed by adding a dc between each cluster2 on each round, for example, if you have 3dc between each cluster2 on row 8, you will have 4dc between each cluster2 on row 9, 5dc between each cluster2 on row 10 etc ending with 11dc between each cluster2 on row 16. Make a slip stitch at the end of each row. You can work more than just 16 rows if you want.

The final row, R17, is a decorative edge and consists of sc worked from left to right (for the right-handed): please check Petus video for the dress in order to see how it’s done. After you finish the bottom edge, go back to the arm holes and work around them one row of clusters2 separated by 1dc, then add an edge in the same manner as for the skirt. You should obtain 7 cluster2 on each armhole, but it’s no problem if you obtain one more or one less. Add 3 buttons to the back, a button or other decoration on the chest, and then the dress is ready to go on your doll.

SHOES

SOLES – make two of them, in the same color, and don’t fasten off for the second one, if you’re using the same color for the border, like me.

R1: 9ch, 3sc in second ch from hook, 6sc, 3sc in next ch, 6sc, slst into first sc (12)
R2: 1ch, 3V, 6sc, 3V, 6sc (24)
R3: 1ch, [1sc, 1V]x3, 7sc, 1V, [1sc, 1V]x2, 6sc, slst (30)
R4: 1ch, [2sc, 1V]x3, 8sc, 1V, [2sc, 1V]x2, 6sc , slst (36) Prepare a plastic sole that would fit between the two crochet soles, then align them one over the other, making sure the wrong sides of the crochet soles are inside.
Start closing the three-layer sole with a sc row (R5), passing through both loops, for the upper crochet sole, and through one loop, for the bottom sole. Hide the yarn end when you’ve finished and continue with another color.

R6: On the unworked loops of the bottom sole, cast 36sc starting from the same place where you fastened off on R5, for the left shoe, and 18sc further for the right shoe, slst into the first sc (36)
R7-R9: 36sc, slst (36)
R10: left shoe: 6sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together (see Petus video to understand how it’s done), 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 16sc, slst
right shoe: 18sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together, 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 4sc, slst
both shoes: in order to make the strap, 17ch, then starting from the second ch from the hook, work 1sc in the 3rd loop of each chain (the one in the back) up to the beginning (16sc), then slst into the next stitch. Fasten off.

BOW: in magic ring, 3ch, 4dc, 3c, slst, 3ch, 4dc, 3ch, slst, secure the magic ring and with the free yarn end, cover the middle of the bow a few times. Attach to the strap with glue or using the yarn ends. I added some clips on the shoes and on the straps, in order to make them removable.

My strawberry doll adores them! Thank you all for joining this CAL, and hope to see you again on the next one! :)

This article is printer friendly. Search for the print button at the end of the article.

Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this CAL, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work and CALs.

Find the first part of the CAL - the hands, here.

Find the second part of the CAL - the legs, here.

Find the third part of the CAL - the body and head, here.

Find the fourth part of the CAL - the assembly, here.

Pikachu girl - free crochet doll pattern

I am very happy to finally present you my Pikachu girl, following a free pattern by Handmade by Mrs Owl, Milena Sova by her real name. She has a youtube channel where she presents her doll patterns and not only - she also shares tips, advises and all sorts of secrets related to crochet and how to design a doll or an amigurumi.

I find her work not only amazing, but also perfect - perfectly designed, perfectly documented and perfectly presented. I couldn't ask for more and, besides, all this knowledge she offers for free! She is filming her tutorials in russian, but she added subtitles in english to all the videos, for a worldwide reach. 

I must admit that, at first, I was circumspect about working my dolls wrong side out. But luckily Milena succeeded to convince me to overcome this aspect, and here it is, my first doll - the Pikachu girl. She was worked with Alize Bahar for body and Catania Originals for clothes and accessory, using a 2 mm Clover Amour hook. She is approximately 32 cm tall and is wearing painted eyes and wool hair. I am so in love with the result! How do you guys find her? :)

Check more photos of Pikachu girl in the facebook post.

Amigurumi tips part 1 - reading and understanding crochet instructions proposed by Papillon en Papier

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I am a fan of simple, understandable within few words, crochet instructions. With intricate designs, such as the doll body, for instance, you need to maintain focus on the final number of stitches you will have on each row.

1. How to follow my patterns

Bellow is the list with the most important terms that I use in my free amigurumi patterns, own or translated / modified (the numbers highlighted in fuchsia are just examples):

• 2sc - two single crochet (one sc in each of the next 2sc)
• 2dc - two double crochet (one dc in each of the following 2 stitches)
• 2hdc - two half double crochet (one hdc in each of the next 2 stitches)
• 3V - 3 increases (2sc in each of the following 3sc - 6sc in total)
• 2X - 2 decreases (decrease is when 2 neighbor single crochet become 1 single crochet. In the example, 2X means two decreases performed one after another - so instead of the following 4sc on the previous row, you will have 2sc on the current row)
• 3inc - perform a specific number on increases (in this example case, 3) on a row, regardless of the position of these increases
• 2dec -  perform a specific number of decreases on a row (in this example, 2), regardless of the position of these decreases
• (20) - inside the parentheses at the end of a row there will always be the number of stitches you need to have on that row - in the example, 20 stitches.
• BLO - back loops only 
• FLO - front loops only (learn how to work in back or front loops only from youtube).

Occasionally I use instructions made of two stages, such as:

1. 6sc in magic ring
2. 20sc - you will continuously work 20sc (instead of 20 there can be any other number), only one sc in each sc ahead. In the example, you will end up with 3 rows (18sc)+2 more sc. I find this easier to follow that regular instructions (that use rows) in case of thin parts - fingers, arms, antennas etc.

2. Working in spiral and rounds

You need to know that, generally, all amigurumis are worked in spiral. However, there are occasions that require working in the rounds (either you will end the row with a slip stitch and continue working around, either you will return, working from the other side on the previous row - as the pattern states).

3. Right side vs wrong side of the work

There are crocheters that prefer working on the wrong side of the work. This is especially available for doll bodies that are worked with very fine yarn and crochet hooks between 0.5 and 1 mm, because the crochet body worked in spiral curls naturally with the wrong side out and is easier to work it like that. But there is also another reason behind this choice - the wrong side of the work is flatter, so the doll body will have a smoother look on the outside. I, for instance, prefer working with the wrong side out only on very thin parts (with a thickness ranging from 3 to 5sc). 

4. Color changing and finishing off

You can find plenty of information on color changing on the internet. Just google or search on youtube "color changing in crochet". The articles and videos you will find include the invisible color changing. I like best one method in particular, that I use not only for color changing, but also for finishing up almost every piece of crochet that I make. I illustrated it in this picture (pictures 1 to 6). 

5. Recommendations

First thing I recommend is to try a simple amigurumi pattern, with full instructions (not simplified as the ones I use). You will get familiarized with the terms, with how increases and decreases work and how to, basically, follow a pattern. Only after that you will be able to try more intricate designs, such as the ones I propose.

Second thing I recommend, whenever you don't understand a term or don't know how to perform a certain stitch, try first to find out a solution on google or youtube. I utilise general terms that are used in crochet, that can be looked up easily just by writing along with them the keyword "crochet". For example, if you don't know how to work an invisible decrease, look up for "invisible decrease crochet". If you really can't find a solution for the problem you face on google, contact me and I will happily try my best to help you. 

Third, I recommend you take the pictures of the finished parts/dolls as a reference for what you should end up with. This will prevent you sometimes from asking really silly questions :)

________

There will be a series of articles on the amigurumi subject. Next time I will write about the things that I learned the hard way, so stay tuned!

Check the other parts of Amigurumi tips series:

Part 2 - Check the yarn, choose the hook, tension and stuffing

Part 3 - Dolls hair and eyes

Pattern Alien Octopus (varianta plată) - valabil pentru firul Catania/Camilla, lucrat cu croșeta de 2.5 mm

În timp ce noi născoceam varianta hibrid (cu corpul cusut) pentru a ne ușura munca și a limita șansele de a avea neconformități ce țin de siguranța prematurilor în caracatițele noastre, fetele din UK se gândeau și ele la o variantă mai accesibilă, ce nu doar că necesită mai puțin timp, dar este și mult mai sigură, întrucât nu conține umplutură - ”flat octopus” au numit-o, deși nu are decât trei tentacule!

Ce am făcut eu mai jos? Am croșetat (relativ) după varianta lor de pattern, doar că, în loc de 3 tentacule, eu am lucrat 5, pentru a o face mai ”bogată”! Voi puteți, însă, lucra mai puține sau mai multe, după preferințe (în limita a opt tentacule). Țin să precizez că, spre deosebire de UK, noi vom merge doar pe varianta cu două discuri croșetate împreună, pentru a minimiza riscurile legate de ascunderea capetelor de fire.

Să purcedem!

Deși am schimbat culorile de mai multe ori, am lucrat în spirală și am utilizat tehnica închiderii invizibile a lucrului (pe care o voi ilustra și în poze). Începând să lucrez cu o altă culoare, am început cu standing single crochet. Am lucrat, ca de obicei, cu tehnica nou învățată și obligatorie pentru corpul tuturor caracatițelor noastre - yarn under.

R1: cu negru (Catania), 7 sc într-un cerc magic (cercul l-am strâns mai târziu cât de tare am putut și l-am securizat cu mai multe noduri realizate cât mai la baza firului) (7);

R2: 2 sc în fiecare ochi (14);

Am tăiat apoi firul negru, am închis lucrul invizibil și am reînceput cu alb (tot Catania).

R3: (1 sc în primul ochi, 2 sc în următorul ochi )x7 (21) (nu contează în ce loc atașați noua culoare);

R4: (2 sc în primul ochi, 2 sc în următoarele două ochiuri)x7 (28);

Am tăiat firul alb, am închis invizibil, apoi am reînceput în culoarea principală (Camilla, în cazul meu) - începeți în primul ochi dintr-o succesiune de două ochiuri care fac parte dintr-o creștere!

R5: (3 sc în următoarele 3 ochiuri, 2 sc în următorul ochi, )x7 (35);

R6: 1 sc în primul ochi, 2 sc în următorul ochi (4 sc în următoarele 4 ochiuri, 2 sc în următorul ochi)x6, 3 sc în următoarele 3 ochiuri (42);

R7: (5 sc în următoarele 5 ochiuri, 2 sc în următorul ochi)x7 (49);
R8: 2 sc în următoarele 2 ochiuri, 2 sc în următorul ochi, (6 sc în următoarele 6 ochiuri, 2 sc în următorul ochi)x6, 4 sc în următoarele 4 ochiuri (56);
R9: (2 sc în următorul ochi, 7 sc în următoarele 7 ochiuri)x7) (63).

Aici m-am oprit, fără să tai firul, și am brodat conturul ochiului și o gură, folosind cotton perle (atenție, verificați firele pe care le folosiți înainte la temperaturi mari, pentru a evita efectul de ”color bleeding” - amestecare a culorilor!). Am securizat broderia cu multe noduri pe spate. Apoi am lucrat spatele corpului, după aceeași schemă de mai sus, utilizând același fir (Camilla), dar practic puteți reveni la Catania sau folosi orice altă culoare vă place (nu trebuie să fie aceeași culoare cu fața).

Ați observat poate că nu am crescut după același pattern ca în cazul corpului umplut. Am ales să distribui creșterile pe fiecare rând decalat față de anteriorul rând pentru a obține, într-adevăr, un disc rotund, și nu unul hexagonal! Cum am procedat? M-am folosit de rândurile impare (cu număr impar de ochiuri la final) și am plasat creșterea în mijlocul grupului de sc simple (nu dublate, ceea ce înseamnă o creștere).

Am suprapus apoi cele două discuri (nu vă speriați dacă sunt un pic vălurite) și am început să le croșetez împreună folosind în continuare firul folosit la realizarea feței, utilizând sc, fără să mai cresc.

TIPS: Corpul vălurit poate fi corectat cu ajutorul fierului de călcat!

În continuare, vă explic schema de lucru pentru varianta cu antene, dar voi puteți sări peste acești pași dacă doriți ca alien-ul vostru să fie altceva decât Howard :) Puteți să lucrați mai multe antene, dacă simțiți nevoia. Printre variantele alternative acceptate se vor număra cea simplă, FĂRĂ ANTENE, și cea care va conține mici petale realizate cu hdc, variantele FLOARE și MEDUZĂ - pattern-urile urmează să fie create și pentru aceste variante.

R10 (rândul de închidere): croșetând prin ambele discuri, am realizat 10 sc, după care am realizat PRIMA ANTENĂ - 10 ochiuri de lanț, dc în cel de-al treilea ochi de la croșetă, sc în jurul ultimului dc, 7 sc în următoarele 7 ochiuri de lanț. Am revenit pe discuri și am lucrat 7 sc în următoarele 7 sc, apoi am început A DOUA ANTENĂ (am lucrat-o identic cu prima). Revenind pe discuri, am lucrat 22 sc în următoarele 22 sc, după care am început să lucrez PRIMUL TENTACUL - 50 de ochiuri de lanț, pe care vă întoarceți cu câte 2 sc în fiecare ochi, începând de la al doilea ochi de la croșetă, obținând astfel 96 de sc, apoi sc în următoarele 3 ochiuri)x4. După ce terminați primele 4 tentacule, îl executați și pe ultimul identic, continuând înapoi pe disc cu restul de sc până la finalizare.

Am încheiat tot invizibil, trăgând capătul aței prin interiorul celor două discuri. Dimensiunea finală a jucăriei este de 7 cm diametru. Dimensiunile acceptate sunt între 6 și 9 cm diametru!

În ansamblu, varianta aceasta, neconținând umplutură, este mult mai sigură și mai ușor de întreținut/curățat decât cea cu corp umplut (fie el croșetat sau hibrid), iar în plus față de aceasta, nu trebuie să ne mai facem griji atât de mari în privința tensiunii de lucru - recomand totuși să folosiți aceleași croșete cu două-trei numere mai mici decât este indicat pe eticheta firului ales, să folosiți în continuare tehnica yarn under, să folosiți pași mici pentru broderie sau atașarea oricărui accesoriu plat și, mai ales, să puneți multă dragoste în toate creațiile voastre destinate suflețelelor aflate la început de drum. Sunt sigură că prematurii vor simți această dragoste impregnată în jucăriile pe care le vor primi!

Numai bine și spor la lucru!

LE: Varianta ”dreamcatcher”, realizată cu fir Denim (conține doar 9 rânduri, același diametru de 7 cm, croșetă de 2.5 mm, broderie realizată în punct-lănțișor ):