CAL doll Greta - free crochet pattern, PART 5 - DRESS AND SHOES

Here we've come, my friends, to the final part of Greta doll, an original design of Petus Ochoa, who gave me her approval to translate her video tutorials. This is why I recommend, once again, to watch the original videos, for the dress and for the shoes, in order to see how special stitches are done and how, normally, everything should look like. You'd notice I worked just a bit differently from the videos, but the modifications I made should not change very much the outcome.

DRESS

Cluster1: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc into the same stitch
Cluster2: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc into the same stitch/cluster

R1: 34ch, turn
R2: starting in 7th ch from hook, 3dc, [cluster1, 6dc]x3, cluster1, 3dc, turn
R3: 2ch (counts as first dc), 3dc, [cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster1, 8dc]x3, cluster2 in the 2ch space of cluster 1, 4dc, turn
R4: 6ch, 5dc, 2dc in last dc before the 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 10dc, 2dc in same dc before the next 2ch, 6ch, skip all stitches until next dc after the 2ch of the next cluster2, works 2dc into same dc, 5dc, turn
R5: (work only sc on this row) 1ch, [2sc, 1V] all along, turn
R6: 6ch, 1dc, [skip one stitch, cluster2, skip one stitch, dc] all along, 1dc final, turn
R7: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 2dc in the dc] all along, turn
R8: 2ch, [cluster2 in cluster2, 1dc, 1dc increase (3dc in total)] all along, join to the other end of the row and then continue working without turning anymore for the following rounds
R9-R16 (8 rounds): the 2ch you make at the beginning of each round should be in the middle of the bottom edge of the triangle between each column of clusters. The triangle shape is formed by adding a dc between each cluster2 on each round, for example, if you have 3dc between each cluster2 on row 8, you will have 4dc between each cluster2 on row 9, 5dc between each cluster2 on row 10 etc ending with 11dc between each cluster2 on row 16. Make a slip stitch at the end of each row. You can work more than just 16 rows if you want.

The final row, R17, is a decorative edge and consists of sc worked from left to right (for the right-handed): please check Petus video for the dress in order to see how it’s done. After you finish the bottom edge, go back to the arm holes and work around them one row of clusters2 separated by 1dc, then add an edge in the same manner as for the skirt. You should obtain 7 cluster2 on each armhole, but it’s no problem if you obtain one more or one less. Add 3 buttons to the back, a button or other decoration on the chest, and then the dress is ready to go on your doll.

SHOES

SOLES – make two of them, in the same color, and don’t fasten off for the second one, if you’re using the same color for the border, like me.

R1: 9ch, 3sc in second ch from hook, 6sc, 3sc in next ch, 6sc, slst into first sc (12)
R2: 1ch, 3V, 6sc, 3V, 6sc (24)
R3: 1ch, [1sc, 1V]x3, 7sc, 1V, [1sc, 1V]x2, 6sc, slst (30)
R4: 1ch, [2sc, 1V]x3, 8sc, 1V, [2sc, 1V]x2, 6sc , slst (36) Prepare a plastic sole that would fit between the two crochet soles, then align them one over the other, making sure the wrong sides of the crochet soles are inside.
Start closing the three-layer sole with a sc row (R5), passing through both loops, for the upper crochet sole, and through one loop, for the bottom sole. Hide the yarn end when you’ve finished and continue with another color.

R6: On the unworked loops of the bottom sole, cast 36sc starting from the same place where you fastened off on R5, for the left shoe, and 18sc further for the right shoe, slst into the first sc (36)
R7-R9: 36sc, slst (36)
R10: left shoe: 6sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together (see Petus video to understand how it’s done), 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 16sc, slst
right shoe: 18sc, 1hdc, 6 dc decreases worked together, 1sc to secure it, 1hdc, 4sc, slst
both shoes: in order to make the strap, 17ch, then starting from the second ch from the hook, work 1sc in the 3rd loop of each chain (the one in the back) up to the beginning (16sc), then slst into the next stitch. Fasten off.

BOW: in magic ring, 3ch, 4dc, 3c, slst, 3ch, 4dc, 3ch, slst, secure the magic ring and with the free yarn end, cover the middle of the bow a few times. Attach to the strap with glue or using the yarn ends. I added some clips on the shoes and on the straps, in order to make them removable.

My strawberry doll adores them! Thank you all for joining this CAL, and hope to see you again on the next one! :)

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Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this CAL, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work and CALs.

Find the first part of the CAL - the hands, here.

Find the second part of the CAL - the legs, here.

Find the third part of the CAL - the body and head, here.

Find the fourth part of the CAL - the assembly, here.

Little honey bee - free amigurumi pattern

Knottellaa is a dollmaker that I admire very much. She even has an exclusive page for sharing her knowledge with the world, Knottellaa Academy. Unfortunately, her master classes are only in arabic...  Even so, I've been quite happy to discover that earlier this year she broadcasted a live video on facebook, featuring the making of "a mistery doll". Which was this very little bee, and I must confess it is really the most wonderful amigurumi I have ever made by now!

I've been struggling almost an entire day to keep up with Knottellaa (because I hardly understand arabic), and meanwhile I took notes, which I share with you bellow. The truth is the world needs more cute little bees like this one :)

I worked with Catania Originals cotton yarn and a 2 mm crochet hook. By the way, I use a Clover  Amour hook and I'm totally in love with it! It's worth all the money!

Body and head

R1. (in black) 6sc in magic ring
R2. 6 sc (6)
R3. 6V (12)
R4-R5. 12 sc (12)
6. (in yellow) (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R7-R16. (alternating black&yellow) 18 sc (18)

Fasten off, change for cream/off white.

R17. 18sc (18)
R18. (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R19. (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)
R20. (4sc, 1V)x6 (36)
R21. (5sc, 1V)x6 (42)
R22. (6sc, 1V)x6 (48)
R23-29. 48sc (48)
R30. (6sc, 1X)x6 (42)
R31. (5sc, 1X)x6 (36)
R32. (4sc, 1X)x6 (30)
R33. (3sc, 1X)x6 (24)
R34. (2sc, 1X)x6 (18)
R35. (1sc, 1X)x6 (12)
R36. 6X

Fasten off.

Cap (in yellow)

R1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
R2. 6V (12)
R3. (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4. (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R5. (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)
R6. (4sc, 1V)x6 (36)
R7. (5sc, 1V)x6 (42)
R8. (6sc, 1V)x6 (48)
R9-R16. 48sc (48)
R17. (4hdc in one sc)x8, 4slst, (4hdc in one sc)x8, fasten off.

Buns (yellow)

R1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
R2. 6V (12)
R3. (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4-R6. 18 sc (18)
Fasten off.

Hands: 6 sc in magic ring, 36 sc around, in spiral.

Antennae: 4 sc in magic ring, (working wrong side up, in spiral), 28 sc.

Small wings

R1. 6sc in magic ring
R2. 6V (12)
R3. (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4. (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R5. Left wing – 1 sc, (1V, 3sc)x3, [1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc] in one stitch, (3sc, 1V)x2, 2sc
Right wing - 1 sc, (1V, 3sc)x1, [1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc] in one stitch, (3sc, 1V)x4, 2sc

Big wings

R1. 6sc in magic ring
R2. 6V (12)
R3. (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4. (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R5. (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)
R6. (4sc, 1V)x6 (36)
R7. Left wing – 2sc, (1V, 5sc)x3, [1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc] in one stitch, (5sc, 1V)x2, 3sc
Right wing – 2sc, (1V, 5sc)x1, [1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc] in one stitch, (5sc, 1V)x4, 3sc

The rose is also a free pattern, courtesy of Happy Berry Crochet. I used this pattern to embellish also my little snail girl.

I hope you will enjoy making this little adorable Honey Bee! You can publish your creations on the exclusive facebook group, Papillon en Papier Wonderland. And I can't wait to hear your opinion on Little Honey Bee's walk through the park!

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Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

CAL Doll Greta - free crochet pattern, PART 2 - LEGS

This article is printer friendly. Search for the print button at the end of the article.

Please make sure you read the first part of the amigurumi tips series - how to read the patterns proposed on this blog, before you proceed to making this doll.

If you want to post photos of what you've created following this CAL, there is a group dedicated to Papillon en Papier artwork - Papillon en Papier Wonderland. Join to keep up with my work and CALs.

I am astonished about how this CAL was received - with so much enthusiasm and excitement! Therefore, I didn't want to delay too much the posting of the second part, so I worked hard to finish my little legs in order to share with you the next stage of this CAL. The hard part is that I work on two dolls at the same time, but I know that eventually this work will pay off and these dolls will become my two wonders!

Let's proceed with the legs!

The video for making these legs is found here.

Unlike Petus, the designer of this doll, I chose to reinforce my doll with copper wire. If you choose to use it too, you should curl the wire at the ends, just like we did with the hands. However, at the closing end, this curvature should be bigger, as illustrated in the picture bellow (g). Also, don't be afraid to use "men" tools, the name by which these pliers would be more familiar to most of you :) I use it to pull easier the needle through the work, when I want to hide yarn ends inside the body or when I embroider the eyes, but also to shape the copper wire.

I added two extra rows and knees to the original legs pattern :)

In "sock" color (white, in my case):

R1. 8ch, start in second chain from hook, 3sc in same ch, (return) 5sc, 3sc in same ch, 5sc (16)
R2. 3V, 5sc, 3V, 5sc (22)
R3. (1sc, 1V)x3, 6 sc, 1V, (1 sc, 1V)x2, 5 sc (28)
R4. (2sc, 1V)x3, 7sc, 1V, (2sc, 1V)x2, 5sc (34)
R5-R7. 34sc (34)

After R7, because I'm planing to make a different shoe model than the original, I inserted plastic soles  (cut to measure) inside the bigger feet (picture (a)), so that the doll will stand by herself even when not wearing shoes. For smaller feet this step is not compulsory, as the original pattern for the shoes (which I will post in the next stage of the call) does include using plastic soles.

R8. 15sc, (1X, 1sc)x5, 1X, 2sc (28)
R9. 4sc, 1X, 1sc, 1X, 6sc, 6X, 1sc (20)
R10. 1X, 8sc, 1X, 2sc, 2X, 2sc (16)

At this stage, you should insert your copper wire and begin stuffing the feet (picture (b), (c), (d)).

R11. 16sc (16)
R12. (3sc, 1V)x4 (20)
R13-R14. 20sc (20)
R15. (4sc, 1V)x4 (24)
Finish off. Keep the yarn end on the outside, if you want to make a crochet border to the sock. At this stage, legs should look like in picture (e).

In skin color:

R16. 24sc in BLO (24)
R17. 24 sc (24)
R18. 6sc, 1V, 2sc, 1V, 14sc (26)
R19-22. 26sc (26)
R23. 7sc, 1X, (1sc, 1X)x2, 7sc, 3V, 1sc (26)
R24. 26sc (26)
R25. 7sc, 1V, (1sc, 1V)x2, 7sc, 3X, 1sc (26)
R26. 26sc (26)
R27. 11sc, 1V, 14sc (27)
R28. 27sc (27)
R29. 12sc, 1V, 14sc (28)
R30-R36. 28sc (28)
R37. 7sc, 1X, (4sc, 1X)x2, 7sc (25)
R38. (3sc, 1X)x5 (20)
R39. (2sc, 1X)x5 (15)
R40. (1sc, 1X)x5 (10)
R41. 5X
Finish off. Hide the yarn end inside the body.

Sock edge: Using the yarn end left outside after finishing the sock, work in front loops of R16 around the leg - 2sc, (3ch, 2sc)x11, 3ch. Cut yarn and finish off.

Bellow there are some photos I took during the legs making process.

This is your finished little leg. Should I remind you how the finished doll, following this pattern, is likely to look at the end? :)

Find the first part of the CAL - the hands, here.

Find the third part of the CAL - the body and head, here. 

Find the fourth part of the CAL - the assembly, here.

Find the fifth part of the CAL - the dress and shoes, here.

Muneca Alexa / Alexa doll - free crochet / amigurumi doll pattern

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Muneca Alexa was the first doll I tried from Petus youtube channel. She is a mexican crochet doll designer, but unfortunately her channel is only in spanish, for the moment. So I asked for her permission to post the notes I've been taken while working on her dolls, and she agreed! So, here is the first pattern I will share with you, but take good care that it represents my own interpretation, and may not contain as much explanation as her videos! So you better take a look at her video instructions too :)

Alexa doll - english instructions

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
V - increase
X - decrease
BLO - back loop only

I worked with cotton yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook for the doll and for the cat, so the doll is approximately 24 cm tall. For the dress, I used a smaller hook, but you might want to use a bigger hook, especially if you're using a thinner yarn, like I did!

1. LEGS (work in spiral)

[in blue]
R1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 6V (12)
R3: (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4: (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R5: (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)
R6: (4sc, 1V)x6 (36)

[in maroon]
R7: 36sc (36); we prepare a plastic disk with the same diameter as the blue disk obtained earlier.

[in blue]
R8-R12: 36sc (36); we introduce the plastic disk into the shoe.

[in skin color]
R13: 5sc, 13X, 5sc (23)
R14: 8sc, 3X, 9sc (20)
R15: 6sc, 4X, 6sc (16)
R16-R30: 16sc (16)

[in blue]
R31: [in BLO] (7sc, 1V)x2 (18)
R32: (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R33: (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)

Lace:
R1: Around the base of every sc on round 31, work 18 sc (18)
R2: (1sc, 1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc in second ch from hook, 1sc - in same sc, skip 1sc)x 9 picots

Shoe strap:
14 ch, return with 13 sc, finish.

2. BODY (work in spiral)

[in blue]
R34: We connect the legs in the center with 6sc (side by side), then we crochet around 48sc (48)
R35-41: 48sc (48)

[in skin color]
R42: [in BLO] 48sc (48)
R43-45: 48sc (48)
R46: (6sc, 1X)x6 (42)
R47-48: 42sc (42)
R49: (5sc, 1dec)x6 (36)
R50-52: 36sc (36)
R53: (4sc, 1X)x6 (30)
R54-R55: 30sc (30); we start to fill the doll body and place the plastic stick/copper wire in the center.
R56: (3sc, 1X)x6 (24)
R57-R59: 24sc (24)
R60: (2sc, 1X)x6 (18)
R61: (1sc, 1X)x6 (12)
R62: 6X (6)
R63-65: 6sc (6) (you may want to make just two rows with 6sc…)

3. ARMS (work in spiral)

R1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 6V (12)
R3-R5: 6sc (12)
R6: Cluster of 3 hdc,  secure cluster with 1sc, 11sc (13)
R7: skip 1ch, (1sc, 1X)x4 (8)
R8: (1sc, 1V)x4 (12) – we introduce the wire
R9-R17: 12sc (12)
R18: (1sc, 1X)x4 (8)
R19: (1sc, 1V)x4 (12)
R20-R27: 12sc (12)
R28: 6sc, 6hdc (mirror for the other arm)

We attach the arms to the body...

4. HEAD (work in spiral)

R1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 6V (12)
R3: (1sc, 1V)x6 (18)
R4: (2sc, 1V)x6 (24)
R5: (3sc, 1V)x6 (30)
R6: (4sc, 1V)x6 (36)
R7: (5sc, 1V)x6 (42)
R8: (6sc, 1V)x6 (48)
R9: (7sc, 1V)x6 (54)
R10: 54sc (54)
R11: (8sc, 1V)x6 (60)
R12-R18: 60sc (60)
R19: (8sc, 1X)x6 (54)
R20: 54 sc (54)
R21: (7sc, 1X)x6 (48)
R22: (6sc, 1X)x6 (42)
R23: (5sc, 1X)x6 (36)
R24: (4sc, 1X)x6 (30)
R25: (3sc, 1X)x6 (24)
R26: (2 sc, 1X)x6 (18); we fill the head and we leave room for the plastic stick / copper wire. We embroider the eyes and the other features, we prepare the hair...
R27: (1sc, 1X)x6 (12)
R28: 6sc (6); connect head to the body...

5. HAIR (work in rows)

R1: 20ch, return
R2: 6sc, 12hdc, 5ch, return
R3: 3+12hdc,  6sc. Repeat until row
R35: 3+12hdc, 6sc. Fasten off really tight, by passing the yarn through the extreme waves of hair.

Pig Tails:
31ch for the short ones
41ch for the long ones, return
2sc in each ch, return
2sc in each sc

6. DRESS (you might want to use a bigger hook, work in rows)

R1: 31ch
R2: 30sc (30)
R3: 1ch, (1sc, 1V)x15 (45)
R4: 1ch, 45sc (45)
R5: 1ch, 6sc, 6ch, skip 10sc, 13sc, 6ch, skip 10sc, 6sc (25+12)
R6: [in BLO] 37sc (37)
R7-R15: 37sc (37)
R16: [in BLO] (4sc, 1V)x7, 2sc (44)
R17: (5sc, 1inc)x7, 2sc (51)
R18-R19: 51sc (51)
R20: (6sc, 1V)x7, 2sc (58)
R21: 58sc (58)
R22: (7sc, 1V)x7, 2sc (65)
R23: 65sc
R24: [in BLO] (8sc, 1V)x7, 2sc (72)
R25-27: 72sc, fasten off.

Using contrasting colors, in the front loops on rows R6, R16 and R24 we work clusters (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in same st, skip 2st, repeat – it will result 13 clusters on row R6 and R16. We repeat this for 5 rows, on the last row work 7 sc on each 2ch space.

The cat is a free pattern, which you can find here. I wired all the 4 legs, so it can attach to Alexa's arm. If you want to see more photos of the finished Alexa, check my facebook page post.

Purchase patterns

Today I want to point out something I've been noticing - people tend to be more sharing-friendly with free patterns, no matter how low their quality is (what I mean here is really ugly toys and scarfs and so on :D). When it comes to purchasable items, people tend to remain indifferent. I mean, real crafting people wouldn't react like this. In my opinion, if you have enough money to spend on yarn, then you have enough money to buy patterns that you would really enjoy making! Come on, life is to short to spend it on crochetting ugly free stuff!

As for me, I was skeptical too at the beginning. I thought I could happily enjoy making free patterns for the rest of my life. Then, I came across astonishing patterns that, unfortunately, weren't for free. I also bought books from which I learned a few tips I wouldn't find online. I am currently subcribed to Simply Crochet, and I find myself quite often spending money on patterns that I don't even use! They're impossibly cute, like this raindeer I purchased last Christmas and never made, that I can't help myself not having them!

What about you? How do you feel about purchasable patterns? :)

Crochet baby hat FREE PATTERN

I made this hat inspired by Kinga from My hobby is crochet. She didn't write the pattern, so I came with my own version, that I share with with bellow. The instructions are in english. Hope you make great hats for babies in your lives! :)

PATTERN:

I used 3.5 mm crochet hook and Red Heart Baby yarn in two colors, but these can be chosen relative to the age of the baby and available yarn.
Begin with magic ring, A color,
Row 1: 20 dc in magic ring, fasten off;
Row 2 (change color to B): (2dc cluster st, ch1) in each dc, fasten off;
Row 3 (change color to A): (1dc, ch2, 1 dc) in each ch1 space;
Row 4: (2dc, ch2, 2dc, ch1) in next ch2 sp, skip 1 ch2 sp, continue working like this till the end of the row;
Row 5 (attach B color right after the end of row 4): working around row 4, (2dc, ch2, 2 dc, ch1) in each remaining ch2 sp on row 3; before ending this row, make sure to pull toward you the end of the A color yarn on row 4, so you can continue working with it;
Row 6: continue with A color, working around row 5 and making sure to pull toward you the end of B color yarn, (3dc, ch2, 3dc,ch2) in each ch2 sp on row 4;
Row 7: with B, working around row 6, (3dc, ch2, 3dc,ch2) in each ch2 sp on row 5.
Rows 8 to 19: work similar to rows 6 and 7; At the end of row 18, fasten off;
Row 20: working around row 19, 9dc in each ch2 sp on row 18, 1sc in each ch2 sp on row 19. Fasten off.

If 9dc in each ch2 sp on row 20 seems to be too much, you can reduce number to 8dc.

2dc cluster stich instructions

ATTENTION!
This is not a verified pattern. I only wrote the instructions after I made the hat, so they might not be totally correct. Also, I don't have any kids yet, so I don't know how this looks on a baby. If any of you makes this hat, please share with us your work and observations! Many thanks!

Lumi & Kinga